For the First Week of November:
Plant remainder of spring flowering bulbs.
Pull up diseased-free annuals and add to compost pile along with leaves and leftover garden material.
Cut back and mulch perennials. Mulching will insulate them from the winter cold, and cutting them back will give them a tidy appearance.
Dig up dahlias, caladiums, gladiolus, etc. Wash away soil; dry, label and place in a bag or box; and cover with sphagnum, moss, saw dust, or perlite. Store in a cool, dry place.
The Second Week of November:
Pot amaryllis to have them bloom by winter.
Drain and bring in garden hoses and sprinklers to avoid freezing damage.
Transplant trees and shrubs after leaves have dropped.
Clean up garden and plant cover crop to improve existing soil condition.
Prevent mice and rabbits from damaging young trees by wrapping the base of the trunks 18 inches high with screening.
Cut back roses 18 to 20 inches and mulch heavily to give them protection and help them survive the winter.
The Third Week of November:
Fertilize shade and peach trees.
Cut leaf material down to ground level after frost has killed the leaf stalks on perennial vegetables like asparagus and rhubarb.
Store apples or pears separately from vegetables. These fruits give off a gas that speeds the ripening and breakdown of vegetables and that also changes their flavors.
Water all trees and shrubs thoroughly every week until the ground freezes to prevent winter windburn.
The Last Week of November:
Cut chrysanthemum stems back to ground level after they have stopped blooming. Add these stems, dried leaves and branches to the compost pile.
Collect grapevines for making wreaths after the leaves have fallen in the woods.
While in the woods, collect nuts, old bird nests, and pine cones to be used for decorating.
Pay careful attention to houseplants throughout the winter.
Check guy wires around newly planted trees to make sure they will not be damaged by windy weather throughout the fall and winter.
DeDelaware Cooperative Extension DSU